If it don't hold up I will build you one that will
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If it don't hold up I will build you one that will
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James Davis
If you have questions call me!!!
304-673-2602
304-877-3419
Check out our web https://jbsperformance.com/
Email to - jbsperformanceinc@aol.com
Ship to - 131 Davis Ct., Mt. Hope, WV 25880
Duraclutch 500 Mile Update
In August 2016, I coughed up the $1,200 for a Duraclutch to install on my 2015 Ranger 900. My Ranger is tuned by RVS and is driven faster than your average Polaris Ranger which is commonly used for hunting, plowing snow, and dunked in deep mud. I like to trail ride first, and then find some mud and sand and water.
I like spinning tires and throwing roost whether it's shredding a corner in the trails or throwing lots of mud in Low Range AWD at 6,500RPM.
I had a hard time keeping a belt with the stock clutch, even with a nice DDP clutch kit and a new team tied secondary. Belts just wouldn't last more than a couple hundred miles. I went through 4 belts in about 1,100 miles. So, I bought a Duraclutch and tuned it a bit for my application. I haven't changed my driving habits only the clutch, and I have had zero clutch problems.
I've ridden up in West Virginia on the Outlaw Trails on 30" Bighorns. I've towed heavy things for miles without a hiccup. I've put my Ranger 900 in the South Texas deep mud and water. I've driven my kids around the pasture in High Range looking at cows. The Duraclutch is the gold standard for high abuse and low maintenance on a Polaris.
Two Negative Aspects of the DuraClutch
The engine braking of the Duraclutch is a major negative for my style of recreational riding. I did change my helix in the Duraclutch secondary to eliminate the engine braking. This is as close to perfection when it comes to engine braking as I can get at the moment, although it is awkward to have a non-EBS secondary and a sprague in the primary. I am not sure if I will keep this setup or if it is reliable in the long run.
The other major negative is that the Duraclutch doesn't feel sporty coming out of the hole. The launch from a holeshot is weak. The centrifugal clutches engage strong at 1,400RPM, and on higher traction surfaces the takeoff feels boggy and then explosive as the ProStar motor quickly comes into the powerband. I've spent more time and more money tuning the DuraClutch. It runs awesome and breaks tires loose at will at even very slow speeds. The holeshot is weak, however. Don't try to race with this clutch. You will get beat on a short track because you will never catch up. Ask me how I know! Haha!!!
You can see how the centrifugal clutches are holding up, and they appear to be in great shape.
Here's a picture of the belt. I do notice a few chips in the top ribs.
2015 Polaris Ranger 900
RVS 86HP Tune | Elka Shocks | QSC Clutching | 27" VIPRs | 5000lb Viper | Baja Designs Lights | Wet Sounds Stealth 10 | 10" SSV Subwoofer | Highlifter Snorkels
2014 Kawasaki Teryx4 800
Warn Provantage 4500-S
28" Terminators | MSA Kore | Highlifter Lift | 50" Radius Lightbar | Dual Batteries |
2011 Yamaha Rhino 734 Sport
Alba 734 | Racer's Edge +2 head | CP 11:1 Piston | 46mm Benchmark TB | JBS Sheave, Muzzys | WER shocks | CATVOS 3" lift | 30" Bighorns
Nice...Thanks Chris and I trust your testing results and write ups
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James Davis
If you have questions call me!!!
304-673-2602
304-877-3419
Check out our web https://jbsperformance.com/
Email to - jbsperformanceinc@aol.com
Ship to - 131 Davis Ct., Mt. Hope, WV 25880
Nice Chris, I have contemplated the Duraclutch more than a few times!! 10 years in a Rhino and now a Rzr is like the change from a Honda XR to a CR-R back in my two wheeled days! I miss the belt engagement of the Rhino! Not fond of the snap your neck takeoffs of the RZR but you have to, to save the belt!! No more bumping the front wheels on a obstacle to see if it wants to climb or not. If not, you better get off the gas or give it a bunch more! Bogging the motor like you could in the Rhino will smoke the belt for sure!
Good information, Chris. Thanks.
2011 Commander XT 1000
2006 660 Special Edition (Sold)
Had lots of neat stuff...
The engine braking is extremely strong, ridiculously strong, in Low Range and just barely manageable in High Range. When riding through rough terrain at a faster clip, sometimes I want to let off and coast through certain spots. With the Duraclutch, when letting off the gas the engine braking wants to almost throw you through the windshield!
It compounds the problem is you are moving along at 25MPH and see a big hit coming up the trail. You let off to scrub off some speed and to float over the hit. But when the clutch makes you take a nosedive it pounds the front suspension hard.
When i I was up in West Virginia, there were a few times that the engine braking wanted to lock up the rear tires coming down steep hills. Polaris can't "lock into" 4WD, so any engine braking only goes to the rear wheels. It's not a natural feeling engine braking like on the Yamaha or Kawasaki.
The Duraclutch has a tractor feel to it at times...haha!
2015 Polaris Ranger 900
RVS 86HP Tune | Elka Shocks | QSC Clutching | 27" VIPRs | 5000lb Viper | Baja Designs Lights | Wet Sounds Stealth 10 | 10" SSV Subwoofer | Highlifter Snorkels
2014 Kawasaki Teryx4 800
Warn Provantage 4500-S
28" Terminators | MSA Kore | Highlifter Lift | 50" Radius Lightbar | Dual Batteries |
2011 Yamaha Rhino 734 Sport
Alba 734 | Racer's Edge +2 head | CP 11:1 Piston | 46mm Benchmark TB | JBS Sheave, Muzzys | WER shocks | CATVOS 3" lift | 30" Bighorns
Do you know if they've released a version for the 1000? I've been somewhat interested in a general but I would want a better clutching system than it has.
2011 Commander XT 1000
2006 660 Special Edition (Sold)
Had lots of neat stuff...
Chris, what kind of tuning is involved with getting it set up to suit you!
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