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  1. #1

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    2004 Starter Solinoid blowing 30amp fuse

    2004 Rhino 660 keeps blowing the starter solinoid fuse. I removed the ignition switch and found it to be fried. Put an automotive ignition on and it does the same thing. As soon as I turn the key to start machine it blows 30amp fuse. I have looked all over and found nothing that points to the problem. At this point I'm really frustrated and don't have a clue where to look. The problem first started when I noticed I had no tail lights, then head lights stopped working then went to turn machine off and the starter keep cranking. Cranked so long that it burnt starter up. I have replaced starter and the solinoid still no luck. As soon as I hit the key blows fuse. Help please. Called JBS and he told me to put it on here. Steve S don't know you but he talked like you were the one with answers. Any help from any folks at this time would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    Kenny G's Avatar
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    SteveS is the electrical guru! But I'd start by securing a good heavy ground wire from the engine case to the frame.
    06/450: Rhino; JBS Hot Rod Sheave/12gr OD's; Blue Spring; 04 Style/KN Air; Dyna CDI; Axia Exhaust Tip; 3" Lift; Sport Shocks; 27X14 Mudlite XTR's; Warn 2500#

    08/700: Rhino; JBS Hot Rod X-Sheave/16gr OD's/Slugged; Purple Spring; Alba TB; Raptor HotCam; MSD/JBS-Map; Yoshimura Duals; Pro One Doors; LSR MTS; LSR Front & Back Supports; Ricochet Skids; Elka 4's; RackZilla/PS: 26X12 Pitbull Growlers; Camoplast T4S; Viper 4500#; Trail Bright LEDs.
    Let'em Buck!!!


  4. #3
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by publicsafety418 View Post
    2004 Rhino 660 keeps blowing the starter solinoid fuse. I removed the ignition switch and found it to be fried. Put an automotive ignition on and it does the same thing. As soon as I turn the key to start machine it blows 30amp fuse. I have looked all over and found nothing that points to the problem. At this point I'm really frustrated and don't have a clue where to look. The problem first started when I noticed I had no tail lights, then head lights stopped working then went to turn machine off and the starter keep cranking. Cranked so long that it burnt starter up. I have replaced starter and the solinoid still no luck. As soon as I hit the key blows fuse. Help please. Called JBS and he told me to put it on here. Steve S don't know you but he talked like you were the one with answers. Any help from any folks at this time would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    The 30 Amp fuse mounted onto the starter solenoid is the "mains" fuse. You have a major short somewhere. The way I would go about trying to find it is to make yourself a "short finder". The idea is to put an incandescent light bulb across the fuse holder. The bulb should be sized appropriate to the size of the short. Here You are up against a 30 Amp plus current draw, so a 12 Volt headlight bulb would be reasonable. A 12 Volt bulb of perhaps 25 Watts would limit the current flowing while feeding the short to about 2 Amps. This keeps you from frying the wiring due to the heavy current draw. A smallish sealed beam bulb would be pretty rugged and serve you well here.

    Here is a photo of one that is sold for outdoor flood lights. These are used in "tractor lights", backup lights, spot lights.... You name it. Buy at hardware stores, auto parts stores light bulb stores, etc.


    After you have run wires from the fuse terminals to the bulb terminals, start with the key switch off. If the bulb is lit up, then the short is somewhere in the mains circuit that feeds the ignition switch circuits and then fusebox. If it is not lit, then turn the ignition key to the on position. Once it is lit then you can try to find the short circuit by pulling fuses in the fuse box, poking and pulling on wires, looking for melted or discolored insulation, wires that are slightly warmer than the others, etc. The current limiting of the bulb assures you that you will not damage wiring any worse than it already might be. This could be very easy to find, or very hard to find....

    Your short circuit has been protected by a fuse, so you are not likely to have something as bad as this:
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  5. #4
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    I should probably mention the killing of circuits that draw current whenever the ignition circuit is on, as not to get that current draw confused with your short circuit. Pull the ignition and signal fuses first as these circuits will be drawing current as they should when you put the ignition switch into the run position. This is making the assumption that your short is not on one of these circuits. Also make sure that your headlights are not on. If the short is elsewhere, then your "short finder" light will light up full brightness anyway. If the short is not out there then it may be in one of the circuits that you pulled the fuse for.

    This fuse pulling is the best way to determine what branch circuit the short is in. This will work as a short cut in all circuits other than the mains circuit but this method will tell you that it is probably in the mains circuit if you have pulled all of the fuses and it still lights up your "short finder" light.

    The wiring diagram at the very end of the service manual is where to look for the routing of all of the various circuits. If you do not have the ability to figure out the wiring diagram, enlist the help of a friend that does. You can download a copy of the service manual on this site somewhere. Do a seach for this if need be.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  6. #5

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    Thanks for all the great info. I'm working today but will get all the supplies you mentioned and start tomorrow night. Looks like this will take me a little but I will let you know what I find.

  7. #6

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    Ok so I hooked up the light switch off light off. Turned switch on light on. Pulled all small fuses in the fuse no change in light. Unplugged the butt connector at the ground light still on. Where do I go from here. Freezing my rear end off and have not made any progress. Please help

  8. #7
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by publicsafety418 View Post
    Ok so I hooked up the light switch off light off. Turned switch on light on. Pulled all small fuses in the fuse no change in light. Unplugged the butt connector at the ground light still on. Where do I go from here. Freezing my rear end off and have not made any progress. Please help
    I'm not exactly sure what you meant in your description. Is this what you are saying? .... You have the test light across the mains fuse terminals (30 Amp fuse unplugged). When the ignition switch is in the off position, the test light is not lit up. When you turn the ignition switch to the on position, the test light is lit up (presumably to full brightness). You have pulled all of the fuses in the fuse box and it is still lit up.

    If this is correct, it is likely to be in a relatively small set of wires. Confirm this and I will try to give you a description of what color wires to trace and check.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  9. #8

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    That is correct. Also when I unplug that pigtail wire from the ground the light is still on. Thanks I love the light ideal by the way. Cheaper than all those fuses I have been buying.

  10. #9
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by publicsafety418 View Post
    That is correct. Also when I unplug that pigtail wire from the ground the light is still on. Thanks I love the light ideal by the way. Cheaper than all those fuses I have been buying.
    Glad you like the "tool". No fuses need to lose their lives for this :-)

    Below you will see an annotated snip out of the service manual wiring diagram. I have highlighted the possible paths that may be involved in your short. They all go to various fuses and a circuit breaker (fan motor power). The fan circuit breaker is a plastic "pouch" affair that is usually found bundled up into the wiring harness. Because the circuit breaker should have kicked out at around 12 Amps or so, It should have tripped before a short downstream from that circuit breaker would have taken out a 30Amp fuse, I doubt that your short is there. The circuit breaker is to be found either behind the battery or more likely on your machine, in the vicinity of the steering column under the hood.

    So you need to trace the wires that are colored Brown with Blue stripes (Br/L in schematic language). The schematic shows them as all branching out but that might not be the case. Schematics are drawn for ease of following the electrical path in the mind and not indicative of how they really run in the machine. You can only assume that the beginning of the entire tree ends up connected to the other device somehow.

    You need to scout the path of the Brown/bLue wire(s) to their end looking for a short to ground somewhere. Most of these wire(s) simply feed the fuse-block so it is probably a single wire feeding a bussed link on the back side of the fuse block (with exception of the connection to the fan motor circuit breaker. The first thing I would look at is the back side of the fuse-block. I hope this is of some help.

    OOps, I mis-labeled the wire coming out of the circuit breaker , it is R/B, which would be Red/Black stripe wire [Fixed]

    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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  12. #10

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    I will get back with it on Saturday and let you know. Thanks

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