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The JBS "BOX OF HORSEPOWER" has arrived
Here is the package of goodies, that showed up today.
All spread out on the Dining Room table ( can you tell that the wife is at work???)
JBS sheave, Fixed sheave, Clutch sleeve, Hot Cam, Fuel Pump, 700 Cam Tensioner,
14 gram OD weights, Purple Spring, New Valves, Raptor Springs, Top End gasket set,
2 JBS stickers( 5 HP each ), and the all important, keep your beverage cold, JBS Beer Wrap!!!
This is the clutch kit from the summer give away that JBS had this year, plus a couple extra
parts I wanted.
Thanks again, James and Nikki.
I will try and get at the install in the next week or so. I've got the spare head on the flow bench
and am working on it now. De-shrouded the intake valves in the combustion chamber and have
started the bowl work behind the intake valves also. 0.100" to 0.250" intake lift has shown about
a 20% increase in flow so far, I would like to see 25% but it's down to using sanding rolls now.
We'll see how it goes. 20% increase in flow relates to 20% more HP, just by cleaning up the head.
I will post the build as it goes and will do a write-up on the sheave. Gotta get that JBS T-shirt.
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CA Redneck
nice, every once and a while a blind squirell finds a nut...lol...bet its gonna be bad ass!
Sent from my momma's basement
"The family Comfort Wagon"..JBS sheave, +6 LT w/kings, 4 seat cage w/3 twisted stitch seats
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Still Shakin' the Cage
20% dang, moobster. you never said anything about a flow bench before. that's cool
you gonna make a documentary as you go through it? share some secrets?
Mountaineers are Always Free!
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I got the flow bench when I was Drag racing IHRA Top Dragster back in '98. I still have a wet bench for flowing injected alcohol nozzles too. I haven't used them since 2006, when I got out of drag racing, so I'm a little rusty, but getting back into the groove. When I did my race car stuff, I would always flow the head with the intake manifold attached. And when doing exhaust port work, you have to attach the headers to the head as well. It's quite tedious, but it's the only way to make the "SYSTEM" work.
I told myself, that I wasn't going to mess with the Rhino. I was just going to ride it through the woods and search for amanita mushrooms. It was a good plan and was working very well. Then I get hooked up with you'all on this damn forum, and well...the horsepower bug came back.
7.0's @ nearly 200mph. Home built car, motor assembled at NuTech in Buffalo. 1350Hp 900Ft# torque.
What a ride!!!
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Once a speed junky always a speed junky!! You just have slower junk now!!
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Originally Posted by
Wingman
Once a speed junky always a speed junky!! You just have slower junk now!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not on the mushrooms, I don't. L&L&Lol
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Christmas came early up North. Great prize package and then the extras. Sound like you'll have that Rhino doing wheeeeeeelies, lol....... Look forward to the finished product Moobster.
06/450: Rhino;
JBS Hot Rod Sheave/12gr OD's; Blue Spring; 04 Style/KN Air; Dyna CDI; Axia Exhaust Tip; 3" Lift; Sport Shocks; 27X14 Mudlite XTR's; Warn 2500#
08/700: Rhino;
JBS Hot Rod X-Sheave/16gr OD's/Slugged; Purple Spring; Alba TB; Raptor HotCam; MSD/JBS-Map; Yoshimura Duals; Pro One Doors; LSR MTS; LSR Front & Back Supports; Ricochet Skids; Elka 4's; RackZilla/PS: 26X12 Pitbull Growlers; Camoplast T4S; Viper 4500#;
Trail Bright LEDs.
Let'em Buck!!!
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Super Moderator
Sweet. Christmas in July.
Commander 1000
Kawasaki Prairie 400
Suzuki Ozark 250
Suzuki 230
F-250 6.0 Diesel
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Still Shakin' the Cage
do you parboil them first? lol
is there a sweet spot that you are looking for as far as flow is concerned?
port velocity?
Mountaineers are Always Free!
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Originally Posted by
08Rhino450SE
do you parboil them first? lol
is there a sweet spot that you are looking for as far as flow is concerned?
port velocity?
Port velocity IS the most important aspect in port flow. The sweet spot is in the area of mid opening of the valve, that is where the most power is gained. When the valve first opens there is a lot of turbulence, this is why you try to unshroud the valve on the combustion chamber side. The more unrestricted the valve is, the sooner it starts to flow. But don't cut too much away because every bit you remove here, lowers the compression of the engine.
Mid travel of the valve is where the A/F mixture, really needs to start to flow, and is the most important area to work on. This is also where velocity is, most important. The piston typically is on it's way down again at mid valve lift, so we want to see maximum cylinder filling starting at this point in the stroke.
When the valve is wide open, the flow is pretty much unrestricted since he valve is out of the way. Working for max. flow here, usually reduces flow in the mid lift areas of the valves stroke. You can get big flow numbers but they mean jack shit. If you hold 3 valves open 1/2 inch, you could drive a truck through there. Your cam only opens probably 8 or 9 mm but the numbers look really impressive at 12mm. Watch for this in flow sheets, it's a great trick.
The valves are only "wide open" ONCE in their cycle, the valves are partially open or partially closed, TWICE as many times.
This is why you spend most of your efforts in the mid open area.
And remember, even with a flow bench, the only way you know you have reached the best port design is when you try for more and you loose the numbers you had. That's why port development takes so long, baby steps and check, baby steps and check.
Hope this helps.
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