I would love to find some sport resi's. Run them on my rig for a while then have them built
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I would love to find some sport resi's. Run them on my rig for a while then have them built
2006 Rhino 660
686 Big bore, 11:1 comp, stage 1 cam
Elka stage 3 shocks
Power steering
Innovate AF gauge
Temp,Volt, and Fuel gauges
12" ITP beadlock wheels
26" ITP Terracross tires
Trail bright LED headlights
Trail bright 30" LED light bar
RZR seats with flat aluminum bases & 4 point harnesses
Dual battery set up with battery separator and 8 place fuse block
James do you sell just the sport resi shock bushing for now or does anyone else know where to get a new one. Mine are getting wore and I don't have the funds for a full rebuild. Also what is the price for a full rebuild.
2009 734 sport, 11:1 CP piston, Rhino Stage 2, Purple, Slugged, MSD 3D, AEM A/F, Oil and water guage, on 26" Silverbacks, ITP SS112 14" wheels, Bandlands #3500 winch, A-Arm Guards, Reverse wheel upgrade in trans
fcr suspension has the fix...call bob tell him i sent you
James Davis
If you have questions call me!!!
304-673-2602
304-877-3419
Check out our web https://jbsperformance.com/
Email to - jbsperformanceinc@aol.com
Ship to - 131 Davis Ct., Mt. Hope, WV 25880
I called and talked to them but Bob was busy. the other guy i talked to sent me some prices and its pretty steep. $75 an eyelet plus i have to ship them to them. They will not send out the kit even if you tell them you want to take the chance of installation error and no warranty. For that price i can just about buy some progressive brand new.
2009 734 sport, 11:1 CP piston, Rhino Stage 2, Purple, Slugged, MSD 3D, AEM A/F, Oil and water guage, on 26" Silverbacks, ITP SS112 14" wheels, Bandlands #3500 winch, A-Arm Guards, Reverse wheel upgrade in trans
Captain- last year when I took my resi off for my nephew to rebuild I found what James had pointed out before about the bushings. I had a machinist friend with a lathe make me some delrin type bushings, and so far they are working fine. I am sure they are better than they were and that they are not as good as needle bearings but I saved several dollars.
2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust
Jim, what did james point out early. I must have missed it. Do you know which bushings your friend started off with or where they completely from scratch? Im just a poor man who spent 2k in a engine rebuild so i just want to get through the year as cheap as possible
Also is there somewhere on here for a good setup on the Resi shocks and what is the easiest way to tell if they are good or bad? Mine have unknown miles since it had a grizzly setup to start off with.
2009 734 sport, 11:1 CP piston, Rhino Stage 2, Purple, Slugged, MSD 3D, AEM A/F, Oil and water guage, on 26" Silverbacks, ITP SS112 14" wheels, Bandlands #3500 winch, A-Arm Guards, Reverse wheel upgrade in trans
When James had my rhino last year he noticed the bad bushings with them on the car and I just wanted to give him a little credit. I would have found the situation when I took them off. My rhino had about 2600 miles and they were in rough shape. Actually I went to a local plastics shop and got the poly rod which is not as hard as delrin, but seems to have some slickness to it that I thought would work. The delrin was only available if I ordered it and it was expensive for the minimum. I almost had them turned out of aluminum bar but used the poly rod I found- sorry I cant give you a spec or name of it. However, I pressed the old bushings out, cleaned up the holes and we made the new poly bushings just a little oversize for press fit and he turned the bushing hole so the bushing insert slipped in snug. Sorry having trouble remembering all the little details. Hope this helps.
At the age of your shocks, according to my nephew in the shock business -they would be due for fresh oil and nitrogen as a minimum. He did mine and I can tell you there is night and day difference. He advised that rather than the manual advised settings, if you have good fluid and nitrogen, you can go out to the end of the click range but just remember to be at least one click back from the end of the range either way.
2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust
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