In stock at JBS.
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In stock at JBS.
Commander 1000
Kawasaki Prairie 400
Suzuki Ozark 250
Suzuki 230
F-250 6.0 Diesel
good video!
guess i'll have to give up on that nitrous bottle.
Mountaineers are Always Free!
funny, very informative vid , thanks
07 camo 660,yoshi duals,kms intake,dynatec cdi,jet kit, montana jack f&r winch mount,w/ warn xt40, 27" bighorns,2" lift, cab with summit heater,aux red top optima, 5 bad ass jrt's on board,itp ss 212s, jbs sheave,14 gr. wts,orange spring, 40 " led light bar, autometer guages,equus tach,innovate afm, jensen ms30 ,jbl 6.5s, elka stage 1 shocks, kenwood 2way radio, alpine ktp445u amp, led headlight mod,twisted stitch harnesses,pro1 doors, 60 amp alternator,power steering, pc925 battery
Im assuming this will also work on the 700 grizz correct?
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Yea it will work the same way.
Sent from the drivers seat of my truck.
JBS 787, bored throttle body , +1ported head, JBS deshrowded valves,kibble white valve springs, muzzy exshaust,dynatek coil,TCP oil cooler, triple pass radiator,billit one steering rack,heavy duty steering tierods, heim joints,+6 long travel,tilt wheel, radius roll cage, JBS rear splash shield
Bead lock wheels , bear claw tires , power steering
Man i bet that plus jbs sheave kit... And a bbk on a grizz would be sick!
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Just done mine and I love it. I'm that guy that put 2500 miles on a rzr with no belt issues, so I use low range more often than most people do. Mainly because I don't want to abuse my machine until I decide it's time to abuse it. I've been driving my rhino for 2200 miles, stopping every time I think I will be running less than 7or8 mph, and putting it in low range because I knew that below those speeds I was slipping the wet clutch. I know how much they cost, and I don't want to ruin it when I know how to make it last longer.
I just slugged the wet clutch and can't believe how much it helped. I had been thinking about it for some time, but was afraid it would have a real jerky take-off, and that was not the case. It's just as smooth as it ever was, only when it engages, it is a very positive feel, and at a much lower speed and rpm. Instead of 7mph, I can now get down to 3 mph in high range and feel no slipping of the clutch at all. It engages in low as soon as you start to move, and gives you a more connected feel between your gas pedal and the tires turning, with better engine braking to go with it.
This is a very nice mod, and anyone who is doing a sheave service should go ahead and do this while you are almost in there. It's worth it.
JBS 734 with Crank Works crank and rod - CP 11:1 BBK- Hotcams stage 3 Raptor cam - JBS ported head - JBS Hot Rod sheave with 16s - Gold secondary - 26x9 OG Bighorns on Racline wheels - BRP cdi - Bazzaz Z FI - Yoshimura exhaust - Hump's led headlight swap with Trailbrightled lights - 10" Rigid SR light bar - 4" cage chop with home made custom bracing - home built doors - Mishimoto radiator
James needs to figure out how to slug Kaw's wet clutch !
Using Tapatalk
Just did this on my 660 rhino, no downsides at all that I can find! This is how it should be factory. No drag at idle, but starts to grab as soon as you give it throttle. Just as smooth as stock, just a little sooner, great mod and easy, especially if you are already servicing/replacing clutch components
2007 Rhino 660 Special Edition
+4mm Hotrods stroker crank,welded/balanced, CP 10:1 102mm piston, Head studs, Raptor valve springs,Hotcam-Raptor stage one, Stock exhaust with header welds ground out, and billet tip on muffler, black rhino cdi, dragonfire sheave, stock rollers/spring
Jetting-165 main, 50 pilot (2 turns out), swapped washers on needle
Great video! Thanks for sharing
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