Overhead stereo console, wiring questions

[09RhinoAZ]

I am working on putting in an overhead stereo console, head unit, small amp and 2 - 6.5" speakers in the console. The head unit is 4x50w, the amp is a 2 channel 2x100 RMS.

Can I go with 8GA for power, or should I go with 6GA?

Regarding the grounding, should I run the ground wire back to the main frame of the rhino as opposed to the roll cage? everyone seems to recommend short runs for grounding, nut I would worry that the cage might not make for a good ground (possible paint/powder coat where it bolts to rhino).



Anything other recommendations or things I should look out for?

[SteveS]

I am working on putting in an overhead stereo console, head unit, small amp and 2 - 6.5" speakers in the console. The head unit is 4x50w, the amp is a 2 channel 2x100 RMS.

Can I go with 8GA for power, or should I go with 6GA?

Regarding the grounding, should I run the ground wire back to the main frame of the rhino as opposed to the roll cage? everyone seems to recommend short runs for grounding, nut I would worry that the cage might not make for a good ground (possible paint/powder coat where it bolts to rhino).

Anything other recommendations or things I should look out for?

Very likely neither 8 ga nor 6 ga. 6 ga is the size if the battery cables that are on the machine. Very large wire, to say the least.

You need to get a handle on the current draw that you will be supporting. If the manufacturers do not tell you the current draw in Amps then you can calculate it from the power draw in Watts. Divide Watts by Volts to get Amps. To get a close approximation use 12.7 Volts for your calculations. The numbers do not need to be terribly precise. Add up all of the individual current draws of each piece of equipment and the total current draw in Amps will be what you size your feed and ground wires to.

This easy to use chart will give you the wire size that you need to use. For your audio you will want to use the "critical" column for your circuit length, since it is for a small voltage drop under load (this will make sure that you have no clipping issues). The circuit length is the round trip distance of the power feed wire and the ground return wires added together. The feed and ground wire would be the same wire gauge size. The columns over to the right are each for a different current draw; pick the one closest to your calculated number of Amps (use the higher column if you are in between columns). Where the distance row and Amps column cross is the wire size. If in doubt pick the next larger wire size (smaller gauge size number).



This link will take you to a sticky thread where there are differing charts from differing 'authorities'. They will all be rather similar in results. The post that I am taking you to will give you the link to the full sized chart that you see above here.
http://hotrodforums.net/forums/showt...ll=1#post61278

You should count on running the grounding return wire down to where you have a good electrical connection. You are correct in doubting the roll cage. A paint to paint joint in the return path is asking for trouble. If your calculated current is more than 5 Amps (10 amps perhaps, at the very most) do not use the frame as a ground point If you have not improved your stock factory grounding scheme. Ground directly to the battery negative terminal in that case!

The factory grounding wire is a small black wire that you see siamesed in with the big black cable coming off of the battery negative terminal. This small black wire plugs into the wire harness behind the battery. This wire carries ALL of the electrical system current used by the Rhino electrics, including any load that you connect to the frame. The big fat battery cable is NOT deliberately connected to the frame. Its only function is to feed the starter motor, period.

You can easily improve your grounding over stock and make it such that you can safely attach auxiliary equipment grounds to the frame itself. This is where you get to use that big fat wire that you mentioned in your post. :-) I strongly recommend that everyone do this to their Rhino. There have been cases of completely stock machines with no extra gadgets installed having burnt up their wire harnesses. This link will take you to a thread that explains the whys and the hows.
http://hotrodforums.net/forums/showt...ding-by-SteveS

If you do make connections to the frame, make sure that you pick a frame member that is electrically connected to the base welded frame. No paint to paint bolted-on piece of metal will be a reliable frame electrical attachment point. Scrape the paint off of the frame in a fairly large patch surrounding the hole that you are bolting onto. Make sure that the bare metal is clean, then smear a liberal application of dielectric grease onto that bare metal and the lug on the wire that you are attaching to it. The grease will prevent water from reaching the contacting surfaces and prevents the bare patch on the frame from rusting. Here is a case where diligent over-cleaning is not a good idea, as you will lose the protection of the grease, but to each his own. :-)

P.S. Both of these threads are stickies just above the thread that you posted. It would be nice for everyone to do at least a cursory search for their answer before they ask the question?

[Timmi]

I use 10 r even 12 ga but my wires are usually less than 6 ft long on my rzr

[09RhinoAZ]

OK, I think I will go with 10 ga. I know it is probably a little overkill but it is better to go larger.

[robleticia]

I don't mean to side track the thread, but if you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living Steve? Your electrical knowledge simply amazes me!

[Yotehunter66]

Electric Guru!

[SteveS]

I don't mean to side track the thread, but if you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living Steve? Your electrical knowledge simply amazes me!

I'm a retired mechanical engineer. Sort of done making a living now. When I first started working I was doing electronics for the company. Checkout technician, repair technician, and so forth. This was back in the vacuum tube days, before transistors.

[rodneygt]

This would've been my guess - or something close to it.

And in honor of steve, today I will perform his rhino grounding upgrades before I develop problems.

[SteveS]

This would've been my guess - or something close to it.

And in honor of steve, today I will perform his rhino grounding upgrades before I develop problems.

And the Wizard says, "POOF, there goes your wire harness". A reward for your procrastination....

[rodneygt]

I got it done before the smoke escaped my wires - isn't that what the vinyl on the wires is for - to keep the smoke in? Lol