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  1. #11
    Hump's Avatar
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    I will check mine in the morning. Thanks Scott! I owe you a miller for this one.
    JBS 734 with Crank Works crank and rod - CP 11:1 BBK- Hotcams stage 3 Raptor cam - JBS ported head - JBS Hot Rod sheave with 16s - Gold secondary - 26x9 OG Bighorns on Racline wheels - BRP cdi - Bazzaz Z FI - Yoshimura exhaust - Hump's led headlight swap with Trailbrightled lights - 10" Rigid SR light bar - 4" cage chop with home made custom bracing - home built doors - Mishimoto radiator

  2. #12
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottwv View Post


    All y'all that have 700's need to check you rear brake line where it runs under your air intake tube ! This is a pic of mine (08) with a lil over 5k miles..."age" doesn't matter tho...Trav's bike is a 12 ; and , his blew out a few months ago ! I looked at mine when his went out and it didn't look like this...needless to say , I have "another" project to do bfor next wkend.
    From the posts so far, it looks like there is some variability in where the intake tube actually sets. It sounds like that intake tube can end up being just about anywhere. Perhaps some sort of spacer block fastened to the belly pan and bridging the upper (in the picture) water hose (?) piping would support the intake tube away from the brake line. There is nothing that a shade tree "engineer" cannot do once it is known what must be done..... :-)
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
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  4. #13
    scottwv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
    From the posts so far, it looks like there is some variability in where the intake tube actually sets. It sounds like that intake tube can end up being just about anywhere. Perhaps some sort of spacer block fastened to the belly pan and bridging the upper (in the picture) water hose (?) piping would support the intake tube away from the brake line. There is nothing that a shade tree "engineer" cannot do once it is known what must be done..... :-)
    I "tweaked" the line , and put a piece of rubber line over it...if it would happen to touch again, the rubber will protect it
    08 700 ...

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  6. #14
    Hump's Avatar
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    How do you look at this without taking stuff apart? Or, do I need to take the driveshaft hump out of my floor to see it?
    JBS 734 with Crank Works crank and rod - CP 11:1 BBK- Hotcams stage 3 Raptor cam - JBS ported head - JBS Hot Rod sheave with 16s - Gold secondary - 26x9 OG Bighorns on Racline wheels - BRP cdi - Bazzaz Z FI - Yoshimura exhaust - Hump's led headlight swap with Trailbrightled lights - 10" Rigid SR light bar - 4" cage chop with home made custom bracing - home built doors - Mishimoto radiator

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  8. #15
    Double T Mudbusters jd283's Avatar
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    Looks like you just saved my ass Scott. Mine is damaging the brake tubing and intake tunnel. No good can come from that !!!!!!!!! Gonna have to drop the plate and nip this in the bud!!!

    Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
    2012 blue 700
    JBS Stage 2 Extreme sheave: 15gram sliders: gold spring: Dynatek: JBS splash guards: JBS Slugged clutch: 30x9/10x14 Monster Mayhem: 14" ss212: 2"+ JD lift: 4500lb champion winch: hyperlube radiator treatment: rzr seats-JD lowered: JD 3" cage chop: blue underglows/dome light: JD aluminum roof: JD tower speaker bar with 4 1/2" and bluetooth amp: 42" light bar forward cubes rear: Half windshield: Snorkel your UTV by JD:

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  10. #16
    Double T Mudbusters jd283's Avatar
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    I could see mine and get a phone in there for the pic you can see i Took. I actually pulled the brake line away from the air tunnel before i snapped the pic. They were fused together and i dont like what i felt when i did that. Brake line is pretty bad on mine and may need some JB weld putty on the airtunnel before it starts sucking dust or worse water. The fix is gonna require removing cupholder hump and or skidpate to carefully pull away enough to put some fuel hose or something around an already damaged brakeline without breaking it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hump View Post
    How do you look at this without taking stuff apart? Or, do I need to take the driveshaft hump out of my floor to see it?
    2012 blue 700
    JBS Stage 2 Extreme sheave: 15gram sliders: gold spring: Dynatek: JBS splash guards: JBS Slugged clutch: 30x9/10x14 Monster Mayhem: 14" ss212: 2"+ JD lift: 4500lb champion winch: hyperlube radiator treatment: rzr seats-JD lowered: JD 3" cage chop: blue underglows/dome light: JD aluminum roof: JD tower speaker bar with 4 1/2" and bluetooth amp: 42" light bar forward cubes rear: Half windshield: Snorkel your UTV by JD:

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  12. #17
    scottwv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd283 View Post
    I could see mine and get a phone in there for the pic you can see i Took. I actually pulled the brake line away from the air tunnel before i snapped the pic. They were fused together and i dont like what i felt when i did that. Brake line is pretty bad on mine and may need some JB weld putty on the airtunnel before it starts sucking dust or worse water. The fix is gonna require removing cupholder hump and or skidpate to carefully pull away enough to put some fuel hose or something around an already damaged brakeline without breaking it.
    I didn't run a new line all the way back...I "cheated" and put a compression fitting right by the motor where it turns towards the back. While you have all that apart , fix the cheesy-azz coolant line holders (they most likely have wear spots on them as well) , so they can't move around. I used rubber coated pipe clamps (the ones that wrap around the pipe) and self tappers to secure mine .


    You can get to everything by removing the center hump , and the intake tube. Also , now is a good time to replace the rear u-joint (or grease it) if its loose. I use uj-296 from NAPA
    08 700 ...

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  14. #18
    scottwv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hump View Post
    How do you look at this without taking stuff apart? Or, do I need to take the driveshaft hump out of my floor to see it?

    Shine a light in from pass side at the bottom of the intake tube.
    08 700 ...

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  16. #19
    Double T Mudbusters jd283's Avatar
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    Scott did you use 1/8" fitting, did you just cut bad part out and manipulate line for a single fitting or have to use a splice piece and 2 fittings.

    Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
    2012 blue 700
    JBS Stage 2 Extreme sheave: 15gram sliders: gold spring: Dynatek: JBS splash guards: JBS Slugged clutch: 30x9/10x14 Monster Mayhem: 14" ss212: 2"+ JD lift: 4500lb champion winch: hyperlube radiator treatment: rzr seats-JD lowered: JD 3" cage chop: blue underglows/dome light: JD aluminum roof: JD tower speaker bar with 4 1/2" and bluetooth amp: 42" light bar forward cubes rear: Half windshield: Snorkel your UTV by JD:

  17. #20
    scottwv's Avatar
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    I used 3/16 line that had 10x1.0 ends. Ran new line from master cyl to motor area and used a steel compression fitting to put them together. There isn't enuff straight line under intake tube to just put a fitting there
    08 700 ...

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