Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  6
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Diamond Ohio
    Posts
    208

    SteveS I need you electrical knowledge!

    Heres what I have going on. Out riding, 05 Rhino 660, went through a water hole and it shut off. Thought I had drown my coil and it had shorted out. Replaced coil with a new one, and still no spark. Checked all my connections, cleaned them all, and got spark back. Loaded my rhino to go riding, got to the location and it wouldn't start again. No spark once again. Since then, I have not been able to get it to fire. Turns over fine, but no spark.

    Went through every connection, cleaned and applied die electric grease and still nothing. I even went as far as getting a stock CDI box and trying that, and same thing.

    Last night something made me check the ground at the coil and I found that with the key off its a ground, but with the key on, it shows 11.9 volts at the ground wire. I have all but pulled the harness out to inspect it, but haven't found any melted wires or anything of the such. Any idea what could be causing this?

    Here is the wiring schematic ive been using. https://www.tradebit.com/usr/ridered...660_wiring.pdf

    Thanks!
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

  2. #2
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,636
    Quote Originally Posted by ClarksGarage View Post
    Heres what I have going on. Out riding, 05 Rhino 660, went through a water hole and it shut off. Thought I had drown my coil and it had shorted out. Replaced coil with a new one, and still no spark. Checked all my connections, cleaned them all, and got spark back. Loaded my rhino to go riding, got to the location and it wouldn't start again. No spark once again. Since then, I have not been able to get it to fire. Turns over fine, but no spark.

    Went through every connection, cleaned and applied die electric grease and still nothing. I even went as far as getting a stock CDI box and trying that, and same thing.

    Last night something made me check the ground at the coil and I found that with the key off its a ground, but with the key on, it shows 11.9 volts at the ground wire. I have all but pulled the harness out to inspect it, but haven't found any melted wires or anything of the such. Any idea what could be causing this?

    Here is the wiring schematic ive been using. https://www.tradebit.com/usr/ridered...660_wiring.pdf

    Thanks!
    Right off hand I would venture to say that it is a grounding problem. When you said that you checked for ground at the coil, it's hard for me to guess how you measured grounded with key off and not grounded (voltage showing) with the ignition key on. This is suggesting that the frame has no connection to the battery negative terminal. Yamaha designed it this way, but there is usually an incidental (unintended) connection somewhere.

    Inspect the pigtail, small black wire siamesed into the battery negative lug with the big battery cable. There is a disconnect on that small wire that ties into more small black wires within the harness behind the battery.

    The schematic shows that the ground side of the coil should have a connection from the metal body of the coil to chassis ground and it also has a connection via a black wire to the battery negative terminal (through the daisy chained black wire in the harness). It is somewhat common for this wire and connector to have been overheated sometime or other. This is the ONLY ground connection in the stock machine for everything electrical except the starter motor itself.

    Have you done a ground improvement on your machine? I would suggest that you tie a heavy wire from your engine case (ideally, 10 gauge or heavier, at the termination point of the black ground cable coming from the battery negative terminal) to the frame underneath of the engine. Be sure that you are connecting to clean metal (scrape the paint off and use dielectric grease to seal the joint). This gets the frame grounded.

    Then cut the little black pigtail off of the battery negative lug and re-route it to a known good chassis grounding point. Make sure that the pigtail wire is sound and shows no damage. Again here you need to ensure that the chassis is scraped free of paint and then seal with dielectric grease. Beware of attaching to a chassis member that is simply bolted in place, as you can have only paint to paint connections to the frame itself.

    There have been many threads on this subject so it would be a good idea to do a search for them.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  3. #3
    Have you checked to see if you had water in your magneto? Also pull and check all relays one at a time.

  4. #4
    Administrator WV Hot Rod Rhino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Mount Hope, West Virginia, United States
    Posts
    8,709
    Water in a electrical plug might do that...

    Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk
    James Davis
    If you have questions call me!!!
    304-673-2602
    304-877-3419
    Check out our web https://jbsperformance.com/
    Email to - jbsperformanceinc@aol.com
    Ship to - 131 Davis Ct., Mt. Hope, WV 25880

  5. #5
    jimclemjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    976
    Since you worked on it once and 'fixed it', it may have been the harness connections (ground being one of them) and then it reverted back to its old ways when you took your ride. ???
    Take plug out and try grounding it to the coil ground with an extension wire and see if it sparks. or then take it to the battery. That ought to narrow ground issue....
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  6. Likes SteveS liked this post
  7. #6
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Diamond Ohio
    Posts
    208
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
    Right off hand I would venture to say that it is a grounding problem. When you said that you checked for ground at the coil, it's hard for me to guess how you measured grounded with key off and not grounded (voltage showing) with the ignition key on. This is suggesting that the frame has no connection to the battery negative terminal. Yamaha designed it this way, but there is usually an incidental (unintended) connection somewhere.

    Inspect the pigtail, small black wire siamesed into the battery negative lug with the big battery cable. There is a disconnect on that small wire that ties into more small black wires within the harness behind the battery.

    The schematic shows that the ground side of the coil should have a connection from the metal body of the coil to chassis ground and it also has a connection via a black wire to the battery negative terminal (through the daisy chained black wire in the harness). It is somewhat common for this wire and connector to have been overheated sometime or other. This is the ONLY ground connection in the stock machine for everything electrical except the starter motor itself.

    Have you done a ground improvement on your machine? I would suggest that you tie a heavy wire from your engine case (ideally, 10 gauge or heavier, at the termination point of the black ground cable coming from the battery negative terminal) to the frame underneath of the engine. Be sure that you are connecting to clean metal (scrape the paint off and use dielectric grease to seal the joint). This gets the frame grounded.

    Then cut the little black pigtail off of the battery negative lug and re-route it to a known good chassis grounding point. Make sure that the pigtail wire is sound and shows no damage. Again here you need to ensure that the chassis is scraped free of paint and then seal with dielectric grease. Beware of attaching to a chassis member that is simply bolted in place, as you can have only paint to paint connections to the frame itself.

    There have been many threads on this subject so it would be a good idea to do a search for them.

    The way I found that it was getting voltage is I was using my power probe to ck ground. I have 2 different grounds Ive installed. One going from battery ground to frame, and then one from engne case to frame. I will go over all my connections again and see if I have one hooked up incorrect.
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

  8. #7
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    1,636
    Quote Originally Posted by ClarksGarage View Post
    The way I found that it was getting voltage is I was using my power probe to ck ground. I have 2 different grounds Ive installed. One going from battery ground to frame, and then one from engne case to frame. I will go over all my connections again and see if I have one hooked up incorrect.
    Excellent. Do also recheck the ground connection to the ignition coil body/black wire. This is what was fishy sounding from your description. The orange wire is where the 12 Volt pulses come into the primary coil from the CDI and the black wire/body is where it returns to the battery.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  9. #8
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Diamond Ohio
    Posts
    208
    Ok, back from the dead. I have checked all grounded areas on the machine. No other areas have any power to them. I pulled all the relays and unhooked all extra add ons. Only things hooked up is the main harness, starter relay/solenoid, and grounds. Still when I turn my key on, the black wire going to the coil is becoming energized. Only thing that I can come up with is to remove my complete harness and either go through it or replace. Anything I could be missing before I got through this exciting task?
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

  10. #9
    Have you opened the case and checked your stator/magneto?

  11. #10
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Diamond Ohio
    Posts
    208
    Quote Originally Posted by HillbillyStyle View Post
    Have you opened the case and checked your stator/magneto?
    No water in the engine, and everything spec'd out correctly according to the tests. Also unhooked them to make sure just for shits and giggles and still same issue
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •