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  1. #11
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClarksGarage View Post
    Ok, back from the dead. I have checked all grounded areas on the machine. No other areas have any power to them. I pulled all the relays and unhooked all extra add ons. Only things hooked up is the main harness, starter relay/solenoid, and grounds. Still when I turn my key on, the black wire going to the coil is becoming energized. Only thing that I can come up with is to remove my complete harness and either go through it or replace. Anything I could be missing before I got through this exciting task?
    You say you checked for voltage with a "power probe"? Is this a light that is supposed to light up when you have power on the tip? Keep in mind that electricity does not flow unless you have a return to the source as well as a connection to the point that you are measuring. That test light should have a ground wire, as well as the probe tip. That ground wire will need to have a connection to the battery negative terminal. A thread regarding "what is a ground"? : http://hotrodforums.net/forums/showt...ghlight=ground

    Verify that the probe is working properly by connecting the ground wire on the probe to the battery negative and put the probe tip on the battery positive terminal. Assuming the battery is alive, the probe should light up. If you have access to a real multimeter (Voltage and resistance measurements) it will provide you with much more information.


    Here is a thread that goes into the grounding issue on the Yamaha machines and how to fix it: http://hotrodforums.net/forums/showt...ding-by-SteveS
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  2. #12
    In diagram A you have 2 wires, one coming from the CDI which sends the spark signal at the right time, your crank position sensor if it has one would tell the CDI when to send the pulse to the coil to make your spark plug fire, my guess would be you have a bad sensor. take the plug out and see if you can get power from the electrode to the engine block via a test light or multi meter.

  3. #13
    There's multiple ways depending on the machine but something is telling the cdi to stay on the fire circuit, it appears anyway.

  4. #14
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
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    Well after talking to Dynatek, they figured out my problem. What I thought was a ground wire, is actually a "dump" wire. Also the new Dynatek coil hooks up backwards compared to a stock coil. Once I got it all hooked up correctly, I now have spark and its running again
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

  5. #15
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClarksGarage View Post
    Heres what I have going on. Out riding, 05 Rhino 660, went through a water hole and it shut off. Thought I had drown my coil and it had shorted out. Replaced coil with a new one, and still no spark. Checked all my connections, cleaned them all, and got spark back. Loaded my rhino to go riding, got to the location and it wouldn't start again. No spark once again. Since then, I have not been able to get it to fire. Turns over fine, but no spark.

    Went through every connection, cleaned and applied die electric grease and still nothing. I even went as far as getting a stock CDI box and trying that, and same thing.

    Last night something made me check the ground at the coil and I found that with the key off its a ground, but with the key on, it shows 11.9 volts at the ground wire. I have all but pulled the harness out to inspect it, but haven't found any melted wires or anything of the such. Any idea what could be causing this?

    Here is the wiring schematic ive been using. https://www.tradebit.com/usr/ridered...660_wiring.pdf

    Thanks!
    When you say it "turns over fine" is it a correct assumption it is with the keyed ignition switch? When you tried the stock ECU did you take the Dynatek out of the circuit? Have you checked the keyed switch to make sure you are getting general voltage to the general circuit when in starting position. Can't remember the wire color (but maybe Brown with Red stripe????SteveS) Do you have any accessories not fused and hooked up directly to battery? Or accessories unfused and hooked into general power circuit?
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  6. #16
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClarksGarage View Post
    Well after talking to Dynatek, they figured out my problem. What I thought was a ground wire, is actually a "dump" wire. Also the new Dynatek coil hooks up backwards compared to a stock coil. Once I got it all hooked up correctly, I now have spark and its running again
    It is great that you have it running again. Did you have the Dynatek coil installed all along? If so, it seems strange that it ran before and then quit on you. If you installed it after the machine first quit, it would have been a good idea to mention that on this post earlier. It would have been a big factor in the troubleshooting dialogue.

    Would you be able to paste in a copy of the dynatek hookup instructions or their schematic in this thread? It would likely end up be very useful for the next guy that runs into this.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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  8. #17
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    And for the fellow down the road that has a similar problem, I snipped and pasted parts out of the 660 manual that condenses the wiring to include only the ignition circuitry.

    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  9. Thanks WV Hot Rod Rhino thanked for this post
  10. #18
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Diamond Ohio
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    The first time it died I had a factory coil on it. I did ohm test that one, and it was bad. I put the Dynatek one on and it pulled onto the trailer, and never worked after that. Ill see if I can copy the instructions and get them up here
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

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