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  1. #21
    ClarksGarage's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Diamond Ohio
    Posts
    208
    I have these on my rhino. No problems as of yet
    2005 Rhino
    686cc with 12:1 comp
    2" Lift
    30" Interco Black Mamba's
    JBS Hotrod Sheave
    Dynatek CDI
    Slugged Wet Clutch
    Dual Yoshi
    Custom Radiator Relocate
    32" LED Light Bar

  2. Thanks scottwv thanked for this post
  3. #22
    scottwv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Charleston , WV
    Posts
    2,193
    Quote Originally Posted by jimclemjr View Post
    BTW- Scott did not mean to highjack your thread just thought I would add this to the subject line you got started. You helped me on your earlier thoughts about the misalignment bushings and reaming and I decided I did not want to ream my spindles to accommodate the joints, which main reason was $80 for a reamer ha. I figured I could get this done with a little time at the workbench on the ends. I believe I could have overdrilled or step drilled the top of the spindle hole to about 1/2 to 9/16 with a countersink edge and the tapered shaft may have wedged in OK, but decided not to go that way cause in case it didn't, the repair work would be more. (And I am getting ready for a ride soon.) Thx
    I hear ya . Are you running factory wheels ?? I took the time to drill out the center (which by the way is TUFF shit ) on a pair of factory commander outer ends to fit my cognitos whenever I first got them. They threaded right on my inner ; but , the cog's were drilled out to 1/2" . They were plety beefy , and looked badd-azz ; but , whenever I put the tire(s) back on , they wouldn't roll ! The end was too big , and bound up the wheel .
    08 700 ...

  4. #23
    jimclemjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Nashville
    Posts
    976
    No sir, ITP 14" beadlocks... I can look right down on my ends. Good point for others as the zerk would probably hit the OEM wheels if not the end itself. I had previously cut an OEM end open to see if I could drill and tap to install a zerk but it looked too impractical. That's one of the reasons I tried the automotive tie rod end. BTW our factory tie rods are M12x1.25 threads if that helps anyone. Also tie rod end bolt through OEM spindle is M12x1.25.
    I did get them mounted yesterday and they work like a charm. It took me longer to align it than to install lol, I get fairly persnickety on that kind of stuff. My OEM joints were not too worn but the difference in how tight the linkage is, is noticeable. And they are packed full of grease with a bulging rubber boot
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

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