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  1. #31
    Double T Mudbusters jd283's Avatar
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    This thread keeps the Rhinos from being a classic U tube video like we have all seen the RZRs make so many times
    SteveS for Pres!!!

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    2012 blue 700
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  3. #32
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssol View Post
    steve the man!!! i dont always know what he talks about but he knows his stuff and if you dont take his advice well oh well. i did the ground thing before i had any problems because i trust his knowlege so should everyone
    Thx, Wait till you see what is coming out of iStSe LLC fairly soon.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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  5. #33
    Steve, great work you've done. Just a quick question: How long, approximately, does that ground wire from engine to frame need to be? 12"-15"-18"? (It's easier to order a premade quality ground wire with 5/16" terminals on both end anywhere from 6-2 gauge.) I don't have access to the machine right now to measure. Thanks!

  6. #34
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duece View Post
    Steve, great work you've done. Just a quick question: How long, approximately, does that ground wire from engine to frame need to be? 12"-15"-18"? (It's easier to order a premade quality ground wire with 5/16" terminals on both end anywhere from 6-2 gauge.) I don't have access to the machine right now to measure. Thanks!
    It was long ago that I did mine, so I will be relying on my memory to answer your question.
    I used 2 ten gauge wires in parallel. That gives it the same current capacity as 6 gauge.
    6 gauge is all that you will ever need. It matches the starter motor feed wires.
    Cranking the engine is the highest load that you will see, unless you use an outrageously
    large winch and lift your load straight up a tree without benefit of a snatch block.
    In that case use the size of the power cables supplied with the winch as a guide.
    Assuming you use the same routing path that I did, you will probably need no more than
    2 feet to make the connection to the frame along the passenger's side.

    I recall that I recommended making each and every frame member part of the potential ground path. This is for making sure that the jump start connection does not cause a problem, no matter where the jumper is connected. Just ask yourself whether the frame member in question is likely to be used. To make that bulletproof you will want the same 6 gauge capacity. Either scraping paint and using dielectric grease as a corrosion barrier, or jumper wires to tie the frame members together will work perfectly.

    A suggestion is to use an ohmmeter or simple continuity tester will tell you if you need to address that particular frame member. Use common sense to decide if the dielectric grease is needed. The question you need to ask yourself is will this electrical connection be wet with dirty water over long periods of time or not. i.e. a welded joint is a no brainer, leave it be.

    I hope that is a bit clearer than mud, just like our environment tend to be.

    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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