Hey I have a 660 rhino I'm gonna put a clutch kit or sheave kit in. It seems JBS is the way to go. I have a few questions for the experienced guys here.
What do I need to replace in the cvt? The sheave only?
I'm trying to figure out this secondary spring thing. By replacing it what will it increase?
There is different colors of springs what's the better spring to use and why?
I'm looking to gain torque and bottom end mor than top end. My machine is all stock except for the 27 inch tires.
In my 660 with 27” tires, I used 15g weights, new sliders and a jbs sheave and my inner primary sheave was worn so I replaced it too. I also put slugs in my wet clutch and an orange spring in my secondary. The secondary spring will help with it “back shifting” to lower ratio when hills call for it.
I ran the above set up along with a “rais” tube intake between the filter housing and console or “04 style” where there is no tube between the filter housing and console (and jet for these changes). I also had an aftermarket CDI and an aftermarket exhaust at one point.
Anyway, mine climbed really well. I took it to a jbs ride a few years ago and it had no problems in the WV mountains.
When you call jbs, if you tell them your riding style, they’ll make specific recommendations.
Also, I’ll post a couple of recommendations or tips later when I have some time that will help in doing the job.
2011 Commander XT 1000
2006 660 Special Edition (Sold)
Had lots of neat stuff...
I found my thread where I did and learned this job. It has the pics and tips in it. The handedness of the 660 vs 700 wet clutch threads (if you slug it), making the side bar removable for getting the secondary out (you can get it out and in without doing this but its super tight), the amount of grease to use, and some other things are discussed Link: http://hotrodforums.net/forums/showt...tall-questions If it’s not mentioned and you do the slugs, put a cloth over the clips when you remove them - they will fly off to parts unknown. Also, there’s some pins in slots in the secondary you use the poly grease on - don’t over grease them or it can cause the secondary not to open or close completely.
Also, I think I went with the 700 camplate and I used a 700 belt.
Something that helped me: james has several vids and I had them queued up so I could flip back and forth for reference.
2011 Commander XT 1000
2006 660 Special Edition (Sold)
Had lots of neat stuff...
For sure do the slug kit and the 700 plate, i had the jbs sheave in my 450 and i have one in my 700 those will make u happy for sure well worth the money
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09 700 sport
aftermarket cam, duel muzzy exhaust, alba custom map, MSD fuel controller, alba water temp and oil press gauges, SDR LT6, SDR 4seat custom cage and bed, rigid industries 40in. and 10in. light bars, led head and taillights, fox remote resi shocks, DWT beadlock wheels, twisted stitch seats front and back, crow 4pt harness front and back, super atv power steering, quick release steering wheel. ruggid radios incar communication and car to car com, JBS EXTREME2 sheave on the way
Ok the pics I uploaded are the before I tore it apart. Both primary sheaves and the guts of the sheave. I have gotten the wet clutch cover off but don't have a socket to fit the nut holding the wet clutch in place. Does anyone know what size the nut is so I can run to the parts house tomorrow and get a socket to fit it.
IIRC either a 27 or 1 1/16 fits the nut. They’re about the same. 660 has standard right hand threads. 700 has left hand. Drain the oil first or you’ll have a big mess. You’ll need a new gasket to reinstall. If you’re clutch shoes are worn do yourself a favor and get a new Yamaha wet clutch - don’t just get the shoes you can find on the net - a number of people have had the inferior friction material disentegrate and wreck their motor.
2011 Commander XT 1000
2006 660 Special Edition (Sold)
Had lots of neat stuff...
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