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  1. #1

    Cleaning Pri and Sec Sheaves

    What is the proper method to clean the primary and secondary sheaves? Thanks in advance

  2. #2

    Join Date
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    Janesville, Wisconsin
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    Double check the videos on youtube (search WV Hot Rod Rhino) for the disassembly procedures. This is a messy task and can be a pain. What I do is use some paper towels to get as much of the nasty grease and junk out as possible (I also have a couple of plastic putty knives that I use). I get it as clean as I can using this method, then either brake cleaner or parts washer to get it the rest of the way clean. I then like to wash it with Dawn and warm water. Once all done getting the nasty stuff out, I make sure to do a good rinse of the sheave face with brake cleaner to get any grease (finger prints, etc).

    It isn't fun, but it isn't impossible. The videos do a good job of showing what needs to come apart and how to do it. But James makes it look so easy to clean the grease out with paper towels and then put the new grease in.
    2015 Yamaha Viking VI EPS (Camo):
    -JBS Extreme Sheave, JBS Skids, JBS Arm Guards, JBS AIS Block Off, JBS Rad Guards, JBS Slug Kit, 28" Terrabites/14" Hurricanes

    2018 Yamaha Wolverine X4 SE (Silver):
    -JBS Extreme Sheave, JBS Spring Kit, 28” Terrabites/14" Hurricanes, Weller ECM Flash

  3. #3
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Honestly I have used different methods depending on how dirty and what was to be done. A rag with brake cleaner sprayed on it to wipe out inners of weight races to immersion in a kerosene bath, and then hot soapy (Dawn is a great grease cutter) water with clean rinse and air dry. Keep in mind that the Primary has two type of grease and should not cross contaminate. The secondary- you can totally clean it all with some rags/shop towels and brake cleaner. Sometimes if I see some residue, I wipe down with some iso-alcohol to get absolutely sure of cleanliness.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  4. #4
    Do you leave the seals and O-rings installed when you clean the sheaves? Does anybody pressure wash them? I read somewhere that you shouldn't use any kind of solvent for some reason. If you don't use solvent seems like all that is left is soap and water, I'm not sure that is enough. I want to have a plan in place when I get started and not have to wonder what to do next.

  5. #5

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    Have to be careful with the seals and O-rings. Like Jim said, you don't want to cross contaminate the different greases. I don't think that the solvent will damage anything unless you leave it on there for a while (seals lips swell as do O-rings). I wouldn't recommend a pressure washer, because it is overkill and would spray grease everywhere and likely wouldn't cut the time involved to use the brake clean & rag or paper towel methods. Like I said, it is a pain, but not hard work. Always want to make double sure that you have the belt surfaces clean and free of grease/oil/dirt.
    2015 Yamaha Viking VI EPS (Camo):
    -JBS Extreme Sheave, JBS Skids, JBS Arm Guards, JBS AIS Block Off, JBS Rad Guards, JBS Slug Kit, 28" Terrabites/14" Hurricanes

    2018 Yamaha Wolverine X4 SE (Silver):
    -JBS Extreme Sheave, JBS Spring Kit, 28” Terrabites/14" Hurricanes, Weller ECM Flash

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  7. #6
    Do you remove the O-rings and seal when cleaning the inside of the sheave shaft or just clean over them?

  8. #7
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    I remove O-ring, clean and re-grease prior to reinstall. I do not take out seals if not replacing, on anything. (Seal lips wear into a shape on a surface and you cant guarantee getting them back to the exact location, depth, etc.) Too much work to redo for such little cost savings of not replacing.
    I do not think of kerosene as a 'solvent'. It is not a harsh, highly flammable solvent like carb cleaner. If a part is really dirty sometimes I use two kerosene baths with a light compressed air blow-off (wearing safety goggles of course). A good soapy Dawn hot water wash and rinse removes most all the residue and what little is left, if any, can be wiped away with iso-alcohol.
    As shortbus, I do a final spray brake cleaner on belt faces.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

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  10. #8
    scottwv's Avatar
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    Starting fluid will not damage the rubber like brake cleaner possibly could/can...I've used both without any issues tho . I use either alcohol , or acetone to wipe off the sheave faces...make sure you do not leave any greasy finger prints .
    08 700 ...

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  12. #9
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    I should clarify that I do not put any brake cleaner on the belt, I should have said as scottwv, that I clean the sheave faces with brake cleaner where the belt face rides. This also brings to mind that I will scuff any contact wearing face when installing a new belt or shoes. (Like new brake shoes on old rotors.) A little random swirl helps to get any surfaces mated for better contact. For a new belt, I just use a scuff pad on this aluminum as I really don't want to remove any material.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

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