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Help - signal circuit short
Hi, I am the new owner of a Rhino 660 and while it is in pretty good shape it has some issues that need to be taken care of.
It was initially tricky to get the "N" light on and annoying that it would not start in gear; the shift lever was falling off, "N" is easier to find but...
Found 0 volts at the brake light switch, found a blown 10A signal fuse, repaced and immediately popped again.
Started reading and found the post by SteveS to replace fuse with a light bulb, "brilliant", thankyou.
With a 25W bulb it lit right up.
Disconnected the connector to the brake light switch, no change, bulb still bright
Checked volts at that connector, .4v on one and .13 on the other contact. (between contact and battery ground)
The digital display is working fine, so...
Is it ok to ass u me that the short is in the thick bundle of wires between the fuse block and that connector?
How do I lift up the fuse block to look under it?
My simple/cheap mind would like to replace that brown wire between the fuse and brake light switch, but the wiring diagram shows branches going off to multiple places.. so may not be that simple??
Hoping for some help here, please...
Regards
Trevor T
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Administrator
Check the small ground coming from the battery and see if it melted at the connection about 6in from battery
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Hi, I have been reading and upgrading the grounding strategy is on my list, but at the moment that small gound and connector look good, certainly not overheated.
The only things not working are the brake lights and the related ability to start in gear..
Don't understand why that ground would cause the signal fuse to blow??
Hoping that the electrical wiz, SteveS, will find a minute to offer some thoughts, please... would like to know what the actual current flow is from that fuse and where it is likely shorted before the brake switch..
Should start by looking under the fuse box but have not seen how to get there, will take another look
Regards
Trevor T
Durham ON
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Also, with bulb on in the fuse spot, start bending and manipulating the harness to see if it makes any difference to bulb. Especially where it may be resting on a frame rail, etc.
2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust
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Administrator
The small ground wire is a issue on about all of them so it's a good thing to fix to start off with...I think the brake switch or selector switch would be bad
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Administrator
I have seen half bad fuses that didn't send full voltage..fixed one on hillbillies bike like that..he had 9volts to one of his..changed the fuse then 12 volts
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
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Administrator
95% of the wiring problems I see is by mice or from the aftermarket stuff added...you got mice where it's at
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Only had it for a couple of weeks, but no sign of mice damage, at least yet..
Looks good under the fuses, somewhere there's a strong ground on that brown wire, but it also has continuity to the brakelight connector.
Does it run on to feed power beyond that connector? Still thinking of cutting it out and splicing in a new wire outside of the harness..
Thoughts? thanks for replies so far.
Regards
Trevor
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peter pan
without the circuit in front of me I don't have a clue but it is the break switch so it is going to go to the break lights it is a safety so it is going to go ether to the relay or ecu that controls or the neutral switch or both what else Yamaha decided I don't know ..... go to the neutral switch unplug it and check continuity ?? have you checked relays ?? again without the drawing I cant tell you so just suggestions of where to start
2016 wolverine chopped top, warren 3500 winch, custom seats, custom rear window, fold down front window, duel battery set up with all accessories on the second batteries , led head lights, led light bar, interior lights, heater, 27” X14 x9 rage storm tires all sides, 2” super atv lift, jbs clutch, jbs mud guards , exhaust tip, pcv with jbs tunes, I know I am forgetting stuff but more to come
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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IIRC that Brown wire goes to a lot of devices and powers relays, so if you are going to rerun it, make sure you check the wiring diagram and trace down all devices where it goes.
2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust
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