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  1. #1

    Ignition switch problems or wiring??

    For a long time my 660 will every once in a while act like the ignition switch is bad and I get nothing when I hit the key. I carry a heavy wire with.me to cross over starter relay and it will start up. Then after driving around a bit shut it off and ignition switch starts working again. This only happened every once in a blue moon. Iíve since replaced the switch but it never fixed the problem.
    When the problem has occurred in the past I tested wires on back of switch and it was putting out juice when turning key over. Also changed starter relay at same time and that had no effect.
    Now here recently it is doing this almost every time I shut it off. Whatís weird is if I hit the key immediately after shutting off it will turn over every time but if I let it set for 5 minutes the switch donít work. After it has set for a few hours the switch then works again and after riding it 1/2 mile I shut it off let it set 10 minutes and nothing again.
    Does this sound like s heat issue??
    I have no idea what to do next.

  2. #2
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    You have a bad connection that is affected by the alignment of the stars. Assume your battery connections have been cleaned and properly tightened and greased. You have ruled out the starter with Jumper. You ruled out the relay with replacement. You have ruled out the switch with replacement. Use a wire and bridge the switch wires and see if that does it. Seems like I had switch problems several years ago in my Rhino and had to do something but can't remember what....just senior moments. Sometimes the connectors get loose in spade connectors and take a plier and slightly squeeze the side rolls together to create more bite on the spade. Vibrations and corrosion will challenge the connections. then cover outside of connector with dielectric grease. Could maybe be a connection on any safety switch in the system like a roll-over sensor. Pull and clean the ignition fuse and receiver to make sure that connection is good. Also redo your GROUND CONNECTIONS. the grounds can be affected by heat and vibration. Do a search and find SteveS thread on ground redo if you have not done that and redo any factory ground locations, do not trust how they LOOK!
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  3. #3
    Brian lee Rhino450's Avatar
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    Ignition switch problems or wiring??

    I would check the frame ground by going from neg on the batt to a bare spot on the frame with a meter and check the continuity


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  4. #4
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    there may be some false readings when doing the battery to frame continuity. Not all frame members are put together with electrical conductivity in mind. The joint may have paint to paint mating surfaces and the mounting bolt hardware may not have ground its way down to metal to metal. It then would be electrically isolated from the frame proper. So when doing that continuity test choose a scraped bare part of the main chassis, or second best, at best, one of the bolts going through the main frame.

    This electrical issue can be a pain, if you ground your newly installed add-on to a painted metal frame member, you may end up with a inert device. If this happens, you need to find another grounding point with the electrical conductivity in mind. Or you can disassemble the panel, grab your hand grinder and a patch of paint (and metal) on both surfaces surrounding the hole. Smear dielectric grease on those surfaces as reassembling. This protection provides a barrier that keeps away corrosion, electrical and plain old rust.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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  6. #5
    Thanks guys
    I hate electrical. Itís always been over my head.
    Any chance you guys think this has something to do with heat??
    It always starts when cool but then after riding and setting 10 minutes is when it quits working and wonít turn over.
    Then if I let it set over night it fires right up in the morning.

  7. #6
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RADICAL RAM View Post
    Thanks guys
    I hate electrical. It’s always been over my head.
    Any chance you guys think this has something to do with heat??
    It always starts when cool but then after riding and setting 10 minutes is when it quits working and won’t turn over.
    Then if I let it set over night it fires right up in the morning.
    Generally, electrical devices are not sensitive to relatively small temperature changes. It could be your battery is weak. A weak battery will put out a decent amount of current when first used after setting for a long while. The charge then depletes upon cranking the engine and it will not repeat the performance. After sitting for a while, the battery recovers it's charge somewhat. Then it will crank the engine for a while. It will then drain down and repeat the cycle.

    Have your battery load tested at a battery store.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  8. Likes Kenny G liked this post
  9. #7
    Steve
    Battery tested good at 12.7. I cleaned terminals and connection fittings. That did not change anything. I then got out the test light and started checking wires. I got to the starter relay three small wires going into top of the relay. Red wire always hot. Yellow wire had juice when key turned on. And when I got to last wire blue with black stripe I held the key in the start position first and it would not turn over. While holding key in start position I then inserted test light into the hole where blue and black wire enter the relay. As soon as it touched it started turning over and started the machine. Obviously it grounded that wire and made it work. I then took test light out and it has been working fine over and over again to this point.
    With that said where is the ground for that wire?? Iím Assuming itís the small pigtail at the negative terminal of battery?? Also I have already run a ground wire from the battery down to the frame as well to upgrade that ground. I have not checked that connection to the frame yet.
    Worst case if I cannot find the problem could I run a ground wire from the relay over to the battery terminal if needed???
    Thanks for the advice

  10. #8
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Rad, your test light made a weak connection of that bLue/Black stripe wire to ground. The ground connection is supplied by the Black wire going into the ignition switch. That is the function that your keyswitch should do in the start position. You mechanically jiggled the connection with pressure from the test light probe. That may well be fixed as you say that it has been working properly since.

    Congratulations, you are on your way to electrical tech status. If it don't work beat it with a hammer..
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  11. #9
    It is still working fine to this point.
    I did check my ground connections bolted to side of engine and the wire coming down from battery was a little loose so I clamped my fitting back on tight and put it back together and covered in dielectrics grease.

    Kind of funny this electrical issue was the last straw for me and drove me to buy a really nice 2013 700 with 588 miles on it just this week and now it’s going to start working and probably not have anymore problems with my 660 which I seem to always be fixing something or upgrading and it finally wore me down. The wife’s constant threat of buying something else may have persuaded me a little too.
    But I love the 660 too much to give her away. I have put so much time and money into her over the past 10 years we have a love hate relationship so I guess I’ll be a proud father of two rhinos now.

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