Thought I would share my efforts at a 3" leveling cage chop that is easy to do. First of all I think the OEM cage strength is not comprised by this project but that would not stand up in court, so accept the risk if you do this.
I never removed the cage. I merely predrilled the cage before cutting 3" off each leg. Use a band clamp for a good square cut and mark bolt centerpoints and drill one side at a time. Cut the center horizontal bracket after measuring (IIRC 47 3/4" long out to out of brackets) at the beginning of the curves where it turns down, it leaves about 9" of tube on each side. The tube is 1 1/2" OD and slips easily inside of an 1 3/4" tube I had or you can order (stockcar racing or tubing on internet are great folks). I welded at each end and a drilled hole about six inch inboard. Cut the curved OEM bracket, rough cut the ends, pinched them in vise and fine cut (easier than coping the angle) and welded. Used a partial can of bed coating. Fit is good after some tweaking. Just loosened bolts at front and with a little ratchet strap persuading, it dropped right in and reamed bolt holes to final slip in. I now have 5/8" of rake instead of 3" before without touching my shock leveling (I am a little higher in rear than front). Cross bar is good height for my 4- point harnesses to be added. FYI- The OEM tubing is really thin and a challenge for me to weld...guess it is designed as a crumple style or something.
I think you could do this project without welding if desired. Instead of welding the center bar, drill and bolt the tube through the slip-in sides. get some 1/8" steel or heavy grade aluminum plate and sandwich the top and bottom tubes and bolt through existing mount and new bar. Plate needs to be about 12" wide at the top and could taper to the bottom mount. maybe about 8" high plate. ?? You could drill holes or cutout some shape to it and could use it to mount accessories between the seats or over carrier.
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