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" White Shadow " Wolverine X2
JBS Performance Extreme Sheave
JBS Performance Suspension Springs
Team Alba Racing ECU
Rigid Side Shooter Led
Yamaha Cab Enclosure
Bazooka Party Bar
" White Shadow " Wolverine X2
JBS Performance Extreme Sheave
JBS Performance Suspension Springs
Team Alba Racing ECU
Rigid Side Shooter Led
Yamaha Cab Enclosure
Bazooka Party Bar
Also when adjusting the TPS that's done on the side of the throttle body with a voltmeter you're adjusting the cable to get it within specs on the cable but you're not adjusting the TPS voltage your TPS could be off also
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James Davis
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I failed to mention earlier that I'm running a stock throttle body.
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JBS 734 with Crank Works crank and rod - CP 11:1 BBK- Hotcams stage 3 Raptor cam - JBS ported head - JBS Hot Rod sheave with 16s - Gold secondary - 26x9 OG Bighorns on Racline wheels - BRP cdi - Bazzaz Z FI - Yoshimura exhaust - Hump's led headlight swap with Trailbrightled lights - 10" Rigid SR light bar - 4" cage chop with home made custom bracing - home built doors - Mishimoto radiator
I have a second TPS as well. I will switch that too after I try this set up. See if it makes a difference. Thanks for all the feed back guys!
Okay latest update. Installed stock throttle body with ICU and tps switched with near identical results to the other two. Ran great for five miles, shut it off for a smoke, started up and high idle again. Turned off, restarted and fine. Rode another mile, stopped and shut it off. Started up again and high idle. Shut it off and it ran fine on restart. Checking all connections tomorrow and gonna dielectric grease them. It is tolerable now at least. But very noticeable power loss.
Just wanted to give an update that I have almost sorted the problem out entirely. I ended up grinding down the throttle plate stop just a little bit. I let the blade close against the throttle body and then tightened the screw just a hair to increase the idle a bit. I then set the TPS which is at 13 and 97 for idle and full throttle. It is night and day difference compared to the stock throttle body. I did end up using the spare idle control motor as well.
Thank you everyone for the input and help. I really do love my rhino!
Don't think I mentioned this earlier, but since the Idle Air Control Module (or whatever each mfr calls it) moves and can get gunk in it, on some autos I have taken it off and cleaned it out with carb cleaner and works good as new. Spray it in the throat, cap each end and shake it, pour it out and do again to rinse.
And thanks so much for the feedback and letting us know what solution was found, really shows good character to do so.
2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust
Never know if someone else might have the issue as well. I will say that all of my friends said how much different it was with the stock throttle body. Said they couldn't believe how much faster it is with the bigger one. I would say it is 99percent fixed. I may increase the idle just a touch.
Hopefully for trailfest in the fall I have a wolvy x2
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