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  1. #11
    Hello SteveS (and anyone who wants to contribute)

    Been reading your posts for some time now - I appreciate your knowledge share! I'm a bit of a novice at these things but have been tinkering and learning along the way. I've installed a relay/fuse bus, switches and a variety of accessories. In the process of adding a 2nd battery - mainly to run the sound bar. At some point, I'll add the isolator to keep it charged. It's a marine battery, so for the time being I'm going to pull it out and charge it as needed.

    4 questions (with more questions and questions within questions):

    1) Any issues with putting an isolator between an ATV battery and Deep Cycle Battery?

    2) I was thinking a diode-type isolator might be best for this application, however??? My thinking is that with a dedicated deep-cycle battery running a stereo, I'm not so much in need of the automation a switched/relay isolator provides. Rather, when I'm rolling, the diode isolator would charge both batteries from the stator-anyway. I'm aware of the voltage drop with a diode, and the lower lifespan of a solenoid (Been watching tutorials online). That said, if there are no unforeseen implication of going with a solenoid isolator (with the atv battery and deep-cycle battery) I may be better off going that route. Thoughts?

    3) As for maintainers, I think it's time I start using mine. So, can I leave my lawn mower batteries on a maintainer all winter and/or indefinitely?

    4) Any implications for the maintainers listed below as they push different amps (some are"smart" and others pretty simple).
    • 3 Amp Automatic
    • 1 Amp Manual
    • 1 Amp-ish?? Harbor Freight - Solar
    Blooo Banger
    2014 Yamaha Viking

  2. #12
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    As far as I can see, you will be in good shape. A diode is not a big deal. There is indeed a bit of voltage drop, but not too much. There is a voltage drop of .7 volts or so, so it is not a big deal. The voltage regulator will take care of that while the engine is running. A maintainer simply keeps the battery at the nominal 12.7 volts (the normal voltage at the terminals) when it is not being charged with the engine running. This is different than a charger, which takes the voltage up to 14 Volts or a bit more (depending on the charge rate), in order to push the extra voltage (around 14 to 15 Volts or so) into the battery, just like the charging system built into the stator/regulator system. The faster chargers raise that voltage in order to pump more current into the battery.

    There is no real difference between a maintainer and a charger, just a higher voltage with a battery charger, in order to push current into the battery to build the charge back up to the normal rest voltage. A "maintainer" just "pushes" with a smaller current flow to keep the battery at the proper fully charged voltage.
    All batteries will eventually discharge themselves, but very slowly. Do not expect a battery that has been sitting on the shelf for years and years to remain fully charged. There is a normal slow drain happening to any battery that is just sitting on the shelf.

    This goes on with flashlight batteries ( etc. ) as well, just at a different rate depending on the chemistry involved. As long as it is a normal "lead acid" battery the voltage will be 12.7 volts when there are 6 cells. The old 6 Volt batteries had just 3 cells hence the lower voltage ( 2 Volts per cell for lead acid ). A Carbon Zinc battery ( the old style flashlight batteries) runs at 1.5 Volts per cell. Lithium batteries run at around 1.2 Volts per cell. Lemon juice and certain metals runs at some voltage, but I do not know right off hand what that might be. :-)

    It is just like how long it takes to fill the bathtub of water. If you crank the faucet up, it will fill faster, eh?
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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  4. #13
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    just a word of caution from my experience. I have had better success with battery life by putting a disconnect pigtail on system and running maintainer overnight once a month on each battery. I have killed a couple batteries in the past with small maintainers (and they weren't cheap ones either) by leaving maintainer on them, so I do not trust them. I check battery right before I charge and if it is really down then it gives me an indication of the potential battery condition and life expectancy. Right now I have an AGM 55 AH and the OEM battery and a manual boat selector switch. I alternate my riding days on each battery to keep them peaked. I stay in tune with what's going on and do not want to rely on the auto function of an isolator but know that a failure is probably rare. Also it was cheaper, and I squeak a little when I walk lol.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

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  6. #14
    Steve and Jim, thanks for the replies. I feel better about what I'm doing as a result.
    Blooo Banger
    2014 Yamaha Viking

  7. #15
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclemjr View Post
    just a word of caution from my experience. I have had better success with battery life by putting a disconnect pigtail on system and running maintainer overnight once a month on each battery. I have killed a couple batteries in the past with small maintainers (and they weren't cheap ones either) by leaving maintainer on them, so I do not trust them. I check battery right before I charge and if it is really down then it gives me an indication of the potential battery condition and life expectancy. Right now I have an AGM 55 AH and the OEM battery and a manual boat selector switch. I alternate my riding days on each battery to keep them peaked. I stay in tune with what's going on and do not want to rely on the auto function of an isolator but know that a failure is probably rare. Also it was cheaper, and I squeak a little when I walk lol.
    Hmmm, that is interesting to me. I've never had any sort of problem with continual maintenance. Was this "failure" a instantaneous failure or a gradual decline in performance sort of thing?
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

  8. #16
    kynknwl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
    https://hotrodforums.net/forums/show...ding-by-SteveS


    Refer the recent "misfire" thread above. It will likely get you to where you want to be.

    Steve, appreciate the info! That sounds a lot like what I have going on. My new starter and relay will be here today hopefully, so after I get all of that installed I will see what happens. If it's still the same, I will definitely be looking into this!

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  10. #17
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveS View Post
    Hmmm, that is interesting to me. I've never had any sort of problem with continual maintenance. Was this "failure" a instantaneous failure or a gradual decline in performance sort of thing?
    Hard to answer that question specifically, but if I remember correctly, more like overcharging and boiling off a cell or two even on AGM batt. You know how the batts seem to degrade and will show some voltage but not have any deep power and voltage drops off quick. Is that sulfation in the cells?
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

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  12. #18
    kynknwl's Avatar
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    Case closed. I received the new relay and starter yesterday. I was removing the old starter, which is a pain to get to, and had to remove the ground to the engine right next to it in order to get it out. I stuck a 10mm on the ground bolt, and what do ya know, I could turn it by hand. Since I already had the frame cross member and part of the intake apart, I went ahead and removed the old starter and installed the new one. Got everything put back together and it starts up like never before. This bolt has been loose since the day I brought it home more than likely. Sure wouldn't have thought that would be it. Anyway, I learned a lot messing with all this, and I am sure the old starter was damaged from using it like that for so long.

    Thanks again for all the help from everyone! Always appreciated.

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  14. #19
    Most Senior member SteveS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kynknwl View Post
    Steve, appreciate the info! That sounds a lot like what I have going on. My new starter and relay will be here today hopefully, so after I get all of that installed I will see what happens. If it's still the same, I will definitely be looking into this!
    I am planning to create a new thread in the Rhino Electrical part of the forum.
    Grounding has a huge role to play in the starting circuitry.
    A good place to start troubleshooting is to verify that your grounding is in good shape.
    The first sticky thread is an imported thread from an old Forum that preceded the one we have now.
    You can look there for a beginning to your troubleshooting.
    The problem is that 90% or more of the info is not there.
    It was lost when imported from the original postings
    No ones fault, it just worked out that way.

    If you want all of the "troubleshooting tools" available for diagnosis go to the original postings at this site:

    http://hotrodrhinoforums.forumotion....your-grounding

    Look through it as it has numerous connections to pictures and explanations of the specific problems that can happen.

    I hope that this helps in some way.

    I am hoping that James will be able to sic the website gurus here on completing the full transfer to this site.
    Where there is a Will there is a Way, as they Say.
    Are not I a poet here?


    You will see much more from me as I expand on troubleshooting techniques and tips that can be very helpful.
    It will be in the Rhino electrical sub-forum as I start the thread up, soon, as I hope.
    I am not sure that there were similar problems happening on otter models or not.
    Please post if you or a sit acquaintance have encountered them.

    Happy Trails to You and All.

    SteveS, iStSe LLC, watch for me....
    More poetry, anyone? I have my retired fun in many ways.
    ____________________________________
    http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww240/supallas/SteveSJBS%2048w_zpsg8cskcue.jpg ...... 2004 660 Camo, "Rhino". And now, also a Wolverine X4. "Wolfy".
    |___________________________________
    | Two roads diverged in a wood,
    | I took the one less traveled by....
    | Oh, Oh .

    | .............
    | ...............
    | ............... #
    |___________________________________

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