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Thread: Toe setting?

  1. #1

    Toe setting?

    Was trying to see what my toe setting should be. I have 4 inch portals and jbs springs on my x4. My old rzr manual said toe out but my atvs say toe in.

    The x4 owners manual said to check toe-in. How much toe-in are y'all doing?

    I have a shimmy at higher speeds, think my tires are about done but just checking a few things. 14 inch wheels, runout was about 14/1000th and 12/1000th. Going to set toe and see how it goes. Thanks!

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  2. #2
    I set mine with what I guess you would call toe out. I wrapped a string around the hitch ran past the front tires with it just barely touching the rear tires in the middle (I have 1.5" spacers on the rear). The distance from the string to the rear of the front tire is about 1/8 longer than the front of the tire on both sides. I would assume that would give me about 1/4" toe out as the front of the front tires point out just a little bit?
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    JBS Sheave
    JBS Springs
    Alba Tune

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  4. #3
    Cool, thanks. Yeah, not sure if I should toe in or out. Need a service manual. I kind of get ocd with torque specs and stuff but can't due to no manual. I can see what I'm at now and go the opposite to see what happens.

    I just disconnected my swaybars so will see if that softens up the ride as well.

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  5. #4
    As you said, your RZR said toe out. My old Wildcat said toe out, so I figured toe out on the x4 too. Could be wrong but at least its an easy adjustment for you to play with till you get it how you want it. My sway bars are disconnected. I don't know if its any softer but it feels more stable on off camber trails.
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    JBS Sheave
    JBS Springs
    Alba Tune

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  7. #5
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    some recommend the toe out so when under power it helps alignment get back to straight. The toe out at speed can make the shimmy as each wheel wants to take its turn going straight and the path will male the tires drift one way or another. For me when they are slightly toedin, think of the wheels as plowing forward which gives some steering control. Too much plow and it drags the tires sideways so to speak and can make steering difficult.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

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  9. #6
    I have a trip coming up next week and tend to do some higher speed driving.

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  10. #7
    Ridin' and Guidin' Timmi's Avatar
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    James has a video on it, he sets his straight inline, that's how mine is.

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  11. #8
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    I like mine straight as well with maybe 1/8 at most toe in. Keep in mind that the OEM spec is given based on 26" tires (Wolv), so the bigger the tire the less toe in angle you have with same spec, which I like personally. Also with the hammering our units endure, if you are persnickety about this then if you do the string alignment you may want to measure the string from the frame on each side to see if it is parallel to the rear tires. The rear tires could be off if the a-arms have taken a hit or the unit has ever been rolled or hit hard.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  12. #9
    Hump's Avatar
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    Run it straight up or very slightly toed in like maybe 1/8". I got mine toed in a little to much and it darted real bad and about killed me. Ran it toed out slightly and the same thing, only instead of turning way to quick, it went straight through the woods when I tried to corner at speed. Straight up or very slightly toed in is best. Use Hotrod's method for doing it, because it doesn't get any easier than that.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQZpY2SyvUE
    JBS 734 with Crank Works crank and rod - CP 11:1 BBK- Hotcams stage 3 Raptor cam - JBS ported head - JBS Hot Rod sheave with 16s - Gold secondary - 26x9 OG Bighorns on Racline wheels - BRP cdi - Bazzaz Z FI - Yoshimura exhaust - Hump's led headlight swap with Trailbrightled lights - 10" Rigid SR light bar - 4" cage chop with home made custom bracing - home built doors - Mishimoto radiator

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  14. #10
    Wonder why the other manufacturers recommend toe out? Sounds like straight is the way to go for the Wolverine from these replies. I also wonder how it changes when you actually sit in it as weight will be on the drivers side and not the passenger or if you should change the settings if you are carrying around a lot of weight or pulling a trailer a lot. I know they set trucks up a little different if they are going to be hauling all the time.
    2018 Blue Wolverine X4
    JBS Sheave
    JBS Springs
    Alba Tune

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