voltage problems

[mike.v]

I have a'32 Ford with a 454 big block Chevy, 8-71 Weiand blower and all the normal hi-po parts that I inherited from my father in law when he passed. Here's my issue. The volt meter was only reading between 11-12 volts. I put in a new battery (the one in it was 10 years old!). That didn't seem to help any and it still would flucuate between 11-12 volts and at times not want to idle very well. I took the alternator off and to a repair shop. They said it was in need of repair (diodes and something else were burnt up). Got it back, installed it and the volts jumped right to 14. Great I thought until it started dropping right back down to the 11-12 range (within a minute or two) and the alternator was HOT to touch. I went ahead and took it for a spin around the block and by the time I got back the alternator was smoking. I'm assuming that something else must be causing these issues? I'm at a loss as my electrical skills and knowledge are about tapped out. Any help would be appreciated.

[SteveS]

I have a'32 Ford with a 454 big block Chevy, 8-71 Weiand blower and all the normal hi-po parts that I inherited from my father in law when he passed. Here's my issue. The volt meter was only reading between 11-12 volts. I put in a new battery (the one in it was 10 years old!). That didn't seem to help any and it still would flucuate between 11-12 volts and at times not want to idle very well. I took the alternator off and to a repair shop. They said it was in need of repair (diodes and something else were burnt up). Got it back, installed it and the volts jumped right to 14. Great I thought until it started dropping right back down to the 11-12 range (within a minute or two) and the alternator was HOT to touch. I went ahead and took it for a spin around the block and by the time I got back the alternator was smoking. I'm assuming that something else must be causing these issues? I'm at a loss as my electrical skills and knowledge are about tapped out. Any help would be appreciated.

I would venture to say that you probably have an electrical short somewhere. A common way to help trace it down would be to monitor current flow when reconnecting the various branch circuits. Put an incandescent bulb in-line, as it will limit the maximum current flow and prevent a fire or some such thing. Your alternator will quit smoking and that is a good thing.
Start of by pulling the mains fuse and substituting a smallish 12Volt incandescent bulb, which will limit the current flow to the current flowing through the light bulb, rather than the huge current flowing when you short the battery to ground.

[jimclemjr]

Assuming your voltage regulator is in your alternator as typical these days......Interestingly I had a problem on my old 55 Chevy -short story- the starter cable was loose and melted at the exhaust pipe and would give me a problem grounding out the battery----WHEN it got HOT. A friend has a new Ford truck that when he parked it on a hill a loose wiring harness swung down and melted on the exhaust pipe and killed the electrical system creating a tow to the dealer. Maybe there is a clue in this for you. check all harnesses and connected grounds, especially around anything that would melt the wiring. And since you may have a rogue grounding anyway you had better inspect all your wiring harnesses for any hot spots or rigid feeling areas indicating an internal melting that was created. Bet you got some nice headers that get plenty hot!

Oh yeh, and this is a UTV site- the sponsor's nickname is Hot Rod.

[SteveS]

Assuming your voltage regulator is in your alternator as typical these days......Interestingly I had a problem on my old 55 Chevy -short story- the starter cable was loose and melted at the exhaust pipe and would give me a problem grounding out the battery----WHEN it got HOT. A friend has a new Ford truck that when he parked it on a hill a loose wiring harness swung down and melted on the exhaust pipe and killed the electrical system creating a tow to the dealer. Maybe there is a clue in this for you. check all harnesses and connected grounds, especially around anything that would melt the wiring. And since you may have a rogue grounding anyway you had better inspect all your wiring harnesses for any hot spots or rigid feeling areas indicating an internal melting that was created. Bet you got some nice headers that get plenty hot!

Oh yeh, and this is a UTV site- the sponsor's nickname is Hot Rod.

Excellent advise. I agree with all that you have said.