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  1. #1
    NickH's Avatar
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    Wolverine overheating

    Halfway home on our ride Sunday my wolverine overheated. I got pulled over pretty quick and a buddy of mine I was riding with says to me, I bet your thermostat stuck, mine did on my RZR a few weeks ago. Sure enough, a few taps on the thermostat housing with a wrench and it opened up, the engine cooled down, the light went off, etc. 10 minutes later, same thing, figured it had some air in it at this point, tapped on the housing, filled the radiator and expansion tank up, rode ten miles, overheated again... tapped on the housing, light went out, started riding again and it overheated again. By this point we were less than a minute from the house so I just ride it back. Anyone ever have this happen? 6500 miles on my Rhino, 1400 or so on the wolverine and I've never overheated them. Even with mud and dirt packed radiators. Then the local stealership can't get me in till middle of November, so I just ordered the part. And he ordered a temperature sending unit instead of a thermostat. Then he wasn't sure if he could refund me because it was an electrical part. I made sure he was sure after a few minutes on the phone, but back to the point, anyone ever have a thermostat stick like this? It definitely wasn't open because you could hold the hose coming off the goose neck with bare hands before we tapped on it and it opened.
    2016 Yamaha Wolverine R-Spec SE. 12" double row LED's from Flimmy, Warn Vantage 3000, SSV works audio system.......I need to add more parts!!!!!

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  3. #2
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    It is imperative that these motors have the air bled from system when they get low needing water. I suppose that the air bubble at the high point that could collect around the tstat, could keep the hot water isolated from the pellet so not sensing the heat. Maybe the tapping disturbs the air bubble. But if me I would definitely replace tstat and bleed the system. If it was me based on my experience, since you said 'mud packed', I would pull the radiator and tank it to clean it. You'll be surprised how much dirt is in the fins.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  4. #3
    NickH's Avatar
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    Radiator is spotless thanks to the JBS guards. And Iím sure I had air in it after it boiler out the first time. But itís never been drained or added to since new, never had a problem before the other day. Like I said, itís like it just got stuck closed.


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    2016 Yamaha Wolverine R-Spec SE. 12" double row LED's from Flimmy, Warn Vantage 3000, SSV works audio system.......I need to add more parts!!!!!

  5. #4
    Administrator WV Hot Rod Rhino's Avatar
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    It's probably stuck open....they overheat with no restrictions

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  6. #5
    peter pan buellpjw's Avatar
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    Cant read it all on my phone right now but I am out at camp with a overheating one now you are saying with no restrictions it will overheat? My machine is overheating right away 2 to 3 min in sub below weather it was stuck open but I gutted it and tried again was this a wrong move ? I was thinking waterpump at this point I dont seem to have any flow and was wondering about oil flow because at this temp to overheat that quick just dont seem right and oil is not real hot but head is !
    2016 wolverine chopped top, warren 3500 winch, custom seats, custom rear window, fold down front window, duel battery set up with all accessories on the second batteries , led head lights, led light bar, interior lights, heater, 27Ē X14 x9 rage storm tires all sides, 2Ē super atv lift, jbs clutch, jbs mud guards , exhaust tip, pcv with jbs tunes, I know I am forgetting stuff but more to come

  7. #6
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    If confirmed no flow, DO NOT run it. The balancer sprocket chain drives the water pump and oil pump off same sprocket/shaft. Is possible if the water pump froze maybe the coupler could break, don't remember for sure but thought it was a synthetic material. James probably knows for sure.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  8. #7
    NickH's Avatar
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    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2016 Yamaha Wolverine R-Spec SE. 12" double row LED's from Flimmy, Warn Vantage 3000, SSV works audio system.......I need to add more parts!!!!!

  9. #8
    NickH's Avatar
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    That would compromise the cooling system!!!!!


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    2016 Yamaha Wolverine R-Spec SE. 12" double row LED's from Flimmy, Warn Vantage 3000, SSV works audio system.......I need to add more parts!!!!!

  10. #9
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    That's what happens often, from my experience, when the motor overheats. It ruins the tstat and just makes it overheat. I believe when the tstat is open it just keeps the fluid circulating too fast and not allow radiator time to cool it down.
    Have you verified you do not have coolant flow? The downstream hose coming out of the water pump is easy to take off at back of motor to see if there is flow out of pump. jack it up and take off right rear wheel, and one clamp will let you take the hose off the short, about 8" long pipe, which is above the oil filter. Or if you are young and a little skinny you may not even have to take off the wheel.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickH View Post







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    Didn't even notice the tstat. Eyes focused on the Yuengling. lol

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