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  1. #1

    Big bore info needed

    I know big bore + stoker kit will obviously make the most power but will require way more tear down, down time, and cost. Has anyone just done the big bore and if so were you happy with the power gains?

  2. #2
    Ridin' and Guidin' Timmi's Avatar
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    I had a bbk on my Grizzly, a 727, it added a lot of torque on the low end is where I mostly noticed

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  3. #3
    What brand and compression ratio did you go with?

  4. #4
    Ridin' and Guidin' Timmi's Avatar
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    cylinder works 10:1

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  5. #5
    In your opinion a worth upgrade? What tuning did u have to do?

  6. #6
    jimclemjr's Avatar
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    James built my Rhino to a 734, I wanted the stroker but did not want to wait an extra amount of time since the cranks were out of stock. I broke the reverse gear and had to go into the case. So depending on the year of your motor would enter into my decision as to whether I would do a crank while doing the reverse upgrade. The 734 is awesome upgrade and bunches more torque, I think my signature has the basic details. A couple noteworthy things is the Viking injector, which you already have. IIRC the Viking 6 cam is different and that is what he used, tremendous bottom end. The ALBA exhaust is another step taken. For tuning I used the MSD and with an AFR meter you can tune till your heart is content. Not hard, kinda fun to play with the 'toy'.
    2016 Wolverine R-Spec EPS, Camo, fender ext. 4000 Moto winch w/syn rope, 14"Method B-locks, 27" Maxxis Vipr 9 & 11's, Full flip windshield, A-arm guards, 2 batts, JBS CVT grind, 16 OD, slugs, purple, JBS/Eibach springs, Autometer Temp Gauge
    08 Rhino 700 SE Black Armor, JBS 734 (bbk w/Carillo crank & rod, CP 11:1, deshrouded valves, Raptor springs, Viking cam & FI, MSD, afr Gauge, Unleashed sheave w/JBS OD 18g greased, Purple, slugs, 27" Mudlite XTRs , 6" Chopped , Mishi Rad, ALBA exhaust

  7. #7
    Ridin' and Guidin' Timmi's Avatar
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    worth it to me I added a fuel programmer is all

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  8. #8
    Hump's Avatar
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    A few options with the big bore depending on what you want to do and spend. At the very least, you will gain a bunch of torque and huge amounts of throttle response. Pull hills and turn those tires at light throttle instead of holding it down. If you want the most out of it, you will want to run a bigger cam and cdi box to raise the rev limit, at that point you will want a better crank to handle the rpms. Call James and he can explain it to you in detail with price range for each setup. I think the rule for reliability is stock crank and rod needs a smaller cam and less rpm to live. But, like I said, you will gain a ton on the bottom with a 11:1 734. Mine pulls harder the longer you stay in it, is clutched to stay between 7100-8000 rpms when wide open. But, James put a really nice crank and rod in it to take the punishment. Stock stroke crank in mine, but really strong. Stroker crank costs more depending on what you go with.
    JBS 734 with Crank Works crank and rod - CP 11:1 BBK- Hotcams stage 3 Raptor cam - JBS ported head - JBS Hot Rod sheave with 16s - Gold secondary - 26x9 OG Bighorns on Racline wheels - BRP cdi - Bazzaz Z FI - Yoshimura exhaust - Hump's led headlight swap with Trailbrightled lights - 10" Rigid SR light bar - 4" cage chop with home made custom bracing - home built doors - Mishimoto radiator

  9. #9
    Administrator WV Hot Rod Rhino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mello1 View Post
    What brand and compression ratio did you go with?
    10.75 is what I use

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